European Ban on TPO
European Ban on TPO in Gel Nail Polish: Health Concerns and Industry Response
The Ban Explained
On September 1, 2025, the European Union officially banned Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide (TPO), a key chemical ingredient found in many gel nail polishes. This comprehensive ban prohibits both the sale and use of cosmetic products containing TPO, including existing stock that nail salons may have purchased before the ban date.
TPO functions as a "photoinitiator," a chemical that helps gel polish harden under UV light and keeps colors vibrant. This ingredient is essential for making wet gel polish cure and harden when exposed to UV light during the manicure process.
Health Concerns Behind the Decision
The European Union's decision was driven by significant safety concerns identified through scientific research. EU regulators classified TPO as a "reproductive toxicant" based on animal studies that suggested possible links to fertility problems. European Union regulators flagged TPO as potentially toxic to humans, leading to its classification as a hazardous substance.
Exposure to TPO is of particular concern for salon workers and consumers who frequently get professional gel nail polish treatments, as these groups face repeated and prolonged exposure to the chemical.
However, it's important to note the context of these findings. The safety concerns were identified through animal-feeding studies, which represents a different exposure route than typical human use of nail polish. When applied to fingernails, experts suggest these materials are "very safe" in the way they are typically used.
Regulatory Approach Differences
The ban highlights fundamental differences in how the EU and US approach chemical safety regulation. The EU took a hazard-based approach to their study, examining the intrinsic harm of the chemical in isolation, while the U.S. takes a risk-based approach. TPO remains allowed in the United States, and the ban is expected to go into effect in the U.K. in 2026.
This difference in regulatory philosophy explains why it is not clear that gel nail polish poses a threat to human health given current exposure levels, yet the EU chose to implement a precautionary ban.
Alternative TPO Substitutes
The nail industry has responded quickly to develop safe alternatives to TPO. Several substitute photoinitiators are already available and being implemented:
Primary Alternatives
Alternative photoinitiators include Ethyl Trimethylbenzoyl Phenylphosphinate and Hydroxycyclohexyl Phenyl Ketone. These alternative monomers and photoinitiators offer similar performance characteristics to TPO.
Industry Innovation
Professional nail product manufacturers have developed TPO-free gels through careful reformulation with permitted alternatives such as TPO-L, though these alternatives are less efficient at absorbing LED light. Smart combinations of multiple alternative photoinitiators - some used individually, others in synergy - achieve fast, deep and stable curing comparable to or even better than TPO-based formulations.
Consumer Options
TPO-free gel nail polishes and alternatives are available that offer similar long-lasting results. Many products are expected to market themselves as TPO-free, with gel companies potentially being pressured to reformulate their products.
Impact on the Nail Industry
The ban has immediate practical implications for European nail salons and consumers. Professional manicurists are not allowed to use up their old TPO-containing stock, sell it, or give it away, representing a significant financial impact for businesses that must dispose of existing inventory.
However, the industry appears well-prepared for this transition. Major manufacturers have already reformulated their products, and some brands have positioned themselves as completely TPO-free, offering bio-sourced polishes that are fluid, flexible and fast-drying.
Expert Recommendations
Beauty experts advise that people who have enjoyed gel manicures should not panic, as the risk assessment was based on different exposure scenarios than typical nail polish use. The availability of effective alternatives means consumers can continue to enjoy gel manicures with reformulated products that meet the new safety standards.
The TPO ban represents the EU's commitment to precautionary consumer protection while spurring innovation in cosmetic chemistry. As the industry adapts, consumers can expect continued access to high-quality gel nail products that meet stricter safety standards without compromising performance.
TPO Alternative Photoinitiators for UV Gel Polish
Primary TPO Alternatives
Phosphine Oxide-Based Alternatives
1. TPO-L (Ethyl Trimethylbenzoyl Phenylphosphinate)
- Chemical name: Ethyl (2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl) phenylphosphinate
- Similar structure to TPO but less toxic due to modified benzene ring structure
- Good UVA absorption capacity
- Less efficient at absorbing LED light compared to TPO
- Commonly used commercial alternative
2. BAPO (Phenylbis(2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl)phosphine oxide)
- Also known as 819 photoinitiator
- One of the commonly used phosphine oxide photoinitiators with good UVA absorption
- Higher molecular weight than TPO
- Excellent curing efficiency
3. LAP (Lithium Phenyl-2,4,6-trimethylbenzoylphosphinate)
- Water-soluble photoinitiator that enables aqueous photopolymerization
- Particularly useful for water-based formulations
- Good biocompatibility
Non-Phosphine Oxide Alternatives
4. Hydroxycyclohexyl Phenyl Ketone
- Alternative photoinitiator mentioned as TPO substitute
- Different chemical class from phosphine oxides
- Good UV absorption characteristics
5. Benzoin Derivatives
- Traditional photoinitiators
- Include benzoin methyl ether and benzoin ethyl ether
- Longer established safety profiles
6. Benzophenone-Based Systems
- Often used in combination with co-initiators
- Include benzophenone and its derivatives
- Require hydrogen donors for optimal performance
7. α-Hydroxyketones
- Include compounds like 1-hydroxycyclohexyl phenyl ketone
- Fast curing rates
- Good surface cure properties
Specialized Alternatives
Water-Dispersible Systems
- Water-dispersible photoinitiator nanoparticles based on TPO chemistry
- Modified for aqueous applications
- Maintained effectiveness with improved handling
New Generation Phosphine Oxides
- Enhanced absorption in 350–410 nm range compared to benchmark phosphine oxides
- Some compounds showing higher reactivity than TPO-L at 395 nm
- Optimized for LED curing systems
Combination Systems
Synergistic Blends
- Multiple photoinitiators used together
- Combines different absorption spectra
- Optimizes curing across different wavelengths
- Balances efficiency and safety
Hybrid Systems
- Type I and Type II photoinitiators combined
- Enhanced performance characteristics
- Improved cure depth and surface properties
Key Considerations for Alternatives
Performance Factors
- UV/LED absorption efficiency
- Curing speed and depth
- Color stability
- Shelf life and storage stability
Safety Profile
- Reduced toxicity compared to TPO
- Regulatory compliance in EU markets
- Skin sensitization potential
- Environmental impact
Formulation Compatibility
- Solubility in gel systems
- Interaction with other ingredients
- Effect on final product properties
- Manufacturing considerations
Industry Adoption Status
Readily Available:
- TPO-L and BAPO are widely commercially available
- Hydroxycyclohexyl phenyl ketone is established in market
- Benzoin and benzophenone systems are traditional options
Emerging Options:
- New generation phosphine oxides in development
- Water-dispersible formulations expanding
- Hybrid systems being optimized for specific applications
Market Transition:
- Major manufacturers have reformulated products
- Products expected to market themselves as TPO-free
- Industry pressure driving innovation in safer alternatives
This comprehensive list provides nail product formulators with multiple options to replace TPO while maintaining or improving gel polish performance and safety profiles.